Hairstylist and salon owner Melissa Wagner gives us a modern way to wear a classic go-to.
“This style works best with any type of one-day-dirty hair,” says veteran stylist and salon owner, Melissa Wagner, “but for long, fine hair, it needs to be clean—or else the style will wilt.” Described as a Mad Hatter garden-party style with a classic edge, these amped up, deconstructed curls show off a modern twist to perfectly coiffed victory rolls. For a tutorial on this revamped retro look, we headed to San Francisco’s Secret Agent Salon—known for infusing adventurous, artistic, and avant-garde elements to any look. We watched as Wagner created this edgy rendition of this familiar curly look, perfect for outdoor celebrations and very merry unbirthday parties. LENA PARK
Spray hair with a heat-protectant spray. Separate hair into three sections: center, left, and right. The width of the center section should not exceed the length of your rollers.
WE LIKE: OSCAR BLANDI PRONTO DRY STYLING HEAT PROTECT SPRAY
Wrap the center section with large hot rollers. “Larger rollers will give the top smooth volume,” says Wagner. Grab a two-inch section and place the roller in the middle of that section, wrapping the ends down first; then roll towards the head. Secure with a clip.
For the side sections, repeat, making sure to roll away from the face. “The hot rollers used on the sides were smaller, resulting in a tighter curl and more body,” explains Wagner. “The varying curl sizes gives a more natural result.”
TIP: “Using rollers with teeth will make the look less frizzy,” explains Wagner.
Remove rollers once they have reached room temperature. Spray the ends with a light-hold hairspray to keep the style intact. To add airy volume, flip hair upside down and sprinkle in teasing powder. “It’ll give hair a nice, matte look and expand the shape,” explains Wagner.
WE LIKE: OSCAR BLANDI DRY TEASING DUST
Create a soft, feminine pompadour by gently twisting the bangs or front section of hair to the top of the head and pushing it forward. Pin into place. Grab a thumb-length of hair from the part to the other temple. Gently twist to the side of the head, push forward slightly, and pin into place.
Separate curls with the pointed end of a tail comb, teasing small sections upwards. “This technique leaves curls more intact than traditional teasing or back combing,” says Wagner.
CHANGE IT UP:
Remove the bobby pins from the pompadour. Scoop up small sections of hair using a slightly opened bobby pin. Loop hair up, twist, and pin into place to create an updo. “Repeat until perfectly imperfect,” says Wagner.
TIP: Curl small hanging sections for a polished effect.
Photo: Ron Purdy
Model: Anna at Scout Model Agency/SF
Makeup Artist: Ashley Lentz